The Watches and Wonders edition of Geneva ended with an echo of enthusiasm, with a record attendance of over 55,000 visitors. This “must” event confirmed the vitality of the Swiss watchmaking industry, demonstrated by the creativity and diversity of new proposals. Between celebrations of heritage and revisitations of iconic collections, women took a leading role, especially in the jewelry watch segment. The compact dimensions open up new stylistic frontiers, enhancing the textures and colors of the dials, while the spread of skeleton watches continues to reveal the allure of precision engineering, culminating in technical feats and world records. What are the watch trends for 2025.
Eberhard & Co A Link Between Yesterday and Tomorrow
Eberhard & Co. has presented CONTODAT, a collection that embodies sporty elegance, available in the Automatic and Chronograph versions. The name evokes a model from the 1970s, a period of transition for Swiss watchmaking. The new collection recaptures the bold spirit of that period, with the color orange as a common thread. Both versions (39mm steel case with integrated bracelet) feature dials with original geometric designs and a trapezoidal date display, a nod to the historic model. The time-only version has a small seconds at 9 o’clock and a date display at 3 o’clock. The chronograph has a tachometric scale, a date display at 6 o’clock, nd specific counters. The dials shine with a sunray finish and azuré counters, with orange touches on the hands. The new hands and the integrated bracelet with 2CLICK® clasp are distinctive details. The personalized case back with the phrase “UBI TU IBI EGO” seals the promise of value and continuity.
IWC Schaffhausen The Iconic Ingenieur Automatic 40 Reborn in 5N Gold Luxury
At Watches & Wonders, IWC unveiled the Ingenieur Automatic 40 in 5N 18-carat gold, elevating the iconic design to new heights of luxury. Inspired by the bold aesthetic of Gérald Genta’s Ingenieur SL, this precious re-edition features a case and bracelet crafted entirely from warm, refined 5N 18-carat gold, paired with a distinctive black dial featuring a grid pattern. The transparent sapphire-glass case back offers a view of the beating heart of the watch: the IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre, featuring circular Côtes de Genève finishing, blued screws and a gold-plated oscillating weight, delivering an impressive 120-hour power reserve. The 40-millimetre case is designed for optimum ergonomics and superior comfort on the wrist, thanks in part to the seamless integration of the bracelet. The black grid dial, with its solid gold applied indexes and gold-plated hands, both enriched with Super-LumiNova®, promises excellent readability in all lighting conditions. The meticulous finishing, alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces along the case and bracelet, further underlines the preciousness of this Ingenieur, combining a design heritage with a contemporary and sophisticated elegance.
Montblanc the Minerva soul between functionality and evocative design
Montblanc has honoured its Minerva heritage by introducing two new limited editions of the 1858 Annual Calendar Geosphere. For the first time, an annual calendar animates a manually wound manufacture movement, composed of 336 finely decorated components and visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. The annual calendar functions are distinguished by the large date display at 1noonand the peripheral month display with a red arrow, a tribute to the goddess Minerva and historical chronographs. A singular detail is the replacement of July with “Minerva”, celebrating the registration of the brand in 1887. The rotating three-dimensional globe, hand-painted with the northern hemisphere and day/night indication, is a real eye-catcher, requiring four hours of craftsmanship for each piece. Available in Lime Gold (30 pieces) or steel (100 pieces), both with a fluted bezel inspired by the Minerva models of the 1920s, these watches blend 1950s aesthetics with innovation, offering silver/white dials with sunburst and grained finishes and hands/markers in different shades.
Patek Philippe The pinnacle of complexity at the service of elegance
Patek Philippe has unveiled a remarkable array of new models, including the Ref. 5308G-001, a Quadruple Complication watch that combines a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph (with two patents), and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. The new R CHR 27 PS QI caliber is housed in a white-gold case with an ice-blue sunburst dial. The addition of the split-seconds chronograph required innovations to reduce energy consumption, with a new chronograph clutch system and a patented isolation mechanism. The dial offers optimal readability for the numerous indications. The white-gold case features openworked lugs and is presented on a blue alligator strap with a patented fold-over clasp.
Rolex Writing the Future with the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller
Rolex has introduced the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, a timepiece that marks a new chapter in its history. With an integrated bracelet and an elegant, boldly designed case, it houses the revolutionary calibre 7135, thinner and beating at 5 hertz. The key innovation is the Dynapulse escapement, a rotational alternative to the traditional Swiss lever escapement, made primarily of silicon and immune to magnetic fields. The oscillator features a laser-shaped high-tech ceramic balance staff (a first for Rolex), an optimized brass balance, wheel, and a Syloxi hairspring. The Paraflex anti-shock device is optimized. The calibre 7135 beats at 5 hertz, offering precision to within a tenth of a second, and is visible through the transparent case back. The dial features a honeycomb decoration achieved using laser technology and, in the Chromalight versions, luminescent numerals and hour markers.
A mosaic of innovation and tradition
We have seen tradition join hands with innovation, creating watches that are not just tools, but sparks of emotion capable of expanding time itself. The new trends? They are like rushing currents, ready to sculpt new stylistic and technical horizons. Watchmaking never sleesleepsit is an ocean in perpetual motion, always ready to surprise us with new waves of creativity. And we, tireless explorers of time, can’t wait to set sail towards these new adventures!
